Le Refuge Orrison, The First Stop Out of St Jean Pied de Port. To Stop or Not?

The camino season begins with the arrival of spring in Southern Europe and with it many of the albergues and refuges that have been closed for the winter season will reopen. For those pilgrims who are starting out of St. Jean Pied de Port in France and taking the Napolèon route across the the Pyrenees, here is a question/option for you. At about the 8km mark you will walk to Le Refuge Orrison. Here, there is an option to stop overnight, or you can push on the extra 17kms or so up and over the pyrenees and into Roncesvalles in Spain.

I’ve done it both ways and I can tell you my preference would be to stop. It was a pilgrim tip I had read on a blog and one that I have shared with anyone I know who is setting out on their first camino. It is a tip that has always been appreciated. It may not sound much, but 8kms up hill on your first day is a challenging beginning as your feet, body and mind settles into your camino. The Napolèon route is strenuous and it’s mountainous so it is susceptible to the intensity of all the elements. Sun, wind, snow, rain. I’ve hiked it in all of these conditions and the time I stopped at Orrison was by far the kindest way to begin such a long walk.

Aside from the physicality of the walk, staying at Orrison is an experience. It is a way to acclimatise to walking your camino, to get used to albergue/camino life early in the day and not when you’re tired and spent! Those days will come. At Orrison there’s a special group meal where everyone shares their reason for walking. Of all the places I stayed, this night and these people, and their reasons have stuck with me. You’ll meet people who you may well see over the next week/s while you walk, we did. Lastly, but by no means leastly if you ‘re lucky, you will be rewarded with a spectacular mountain sunset and sunrise.

Accommodation is in dorm rooms. The rate includes dinner and breakfast and a token for a 5 minute shower. There are also a few private chalets if your budget stretches a little more. The restaurant has plenty of tables to spend your afternoon in ‘camino’ vibe mode. Those who wish to join in and chat with others will find each other. And those who prefer to write, read or ponder a little more quietly will also find their space.

Tips!

  • You do need to prebook, you can do that directly on the Refuge Orrison website. The night I stayed I saw many people miss out.
  • There is a water fountain at Orrison to fill your bottles.
  • It is a lovely stop for coffee and a soup or sandwich if you are walking on.
  • You can order a baguette for lunch to take the following day if you stay. From here there is only a food truck that may or may not be on the mountain. No food supplies is a risk.
  • Ear plugs … you will always need earplugs if you’re staying in a dorm, always.
  • Get there early for a bottom bunk, if that’s your preference.
  • It’s seasonal!

Have you stayed at Orisson? What was your experience?


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