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Camino accomodation, Camino del Norte, Camino gear, Camino hiking

Camino del Norte – Day 2 San Sebastián to Getaria

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Life is full of moments that are opportunities to share and smile – La vida está llena de segundos que son oportunidades para compartir y sonreír.

Date: 15th October, 2021

Section: Donostia – San Sebastián to Getaria

Region: The Basque Country

Distance: 27 kms

Average temp: 25°C

Time walking: 6hrs

Ascent: 827 metres

Decent: 804 metres

Staying: Getaria

Hotel Itxas Gain – a small hotel. Everything else is closed.

Double room, shared with Fi €60 for the room.

Recommend, yes ✔️nice clean, great location, everything is close, your own bathroom so walking around in whatever is acceptable!

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

We set off around 8am this morning and grabbed a coffee and croissant at a cafe on the way. The cafe was also serving the smartly dressed locals on their way to work, such a contrast. A harmonious contrast. The camino paths are a part of Spain’s essence and as such its people. They hold space for us as we wayfarer through their towns, soaking in the pleasure of our experiences along these ancient paths.

I walk a different pace than Fi so we decide to walk our own walk today and meet along the way, or wherever we land at the end of the day. This is the beauty of a walking a camino the with someone who has also walked one. We know the drill, how to find our own way.

Two people can walk a camino at the same time and the camino will be walked and experienced differently. We are all here with different intentions, pace and way of doing and being. To me this is one of the most important and respectful things to ‘get’ about a camino. There is no right or wrong way. We all get to be us and that’s rather magical as we can learn from each other. Learn about ourselves and others. Humanity.

The Camino del Norte has long, long stretches without towns, which means no coffee stop for hours. I was glad for the 2L platypus water bladder I have on my back and the additional 1L platypus soft bottle. (Gear tip: these are light, packable, reusable and easy to use – links below.) Of course drinking so much means a lot of toilet stops. The camino is not great for public toilets at the best of times, let alone these long stretches. So FYI future walkers, you do have to be ok with finding a tree or a shrub.

After what felt like a long, physical, yet blissful time walking without a soul in sight I entered the small port town of Orio. In the piazza on an outside table in the sun I found Peter and Jenny. We enjoyed some lunch together. When in Spain and when on the coast I’m going to eat seafood, so it was calamari for me. Peter and Jenny had the traditional tortilla de patatas, a Spanish potato omelette. I had wondered if we’d meet again. They were up and gone earlier than us this morning. Perhaps I will meet them again, perhaps not – as is the way of the camino.

After refuelling, Jenny and Peter were on their way again. I sat a little longer and pondered how mesmerising a camino day can be. It brings you to so many places: small towns, kind locals who leave a first aid kit open for pilgrims, tests of your stamina, your resilience, connections with others – your fellow pilgrims/hikers, time for you.

I set off again with another water taxi ride to continue along the trail across the inlet. Then a Camino del Norte treat arrived, coastal walking, which meant walking with shoes off and my feet in the sea. WOW. How is that for something magical on a unplanned Friday afternoon in October.

I arrived in Getaria after taking the high path rather than the coastal road, I had the energy. It was well worth it. However, by the end I was spent and ready to put my pack down and feet up. This was proving a little tricky. The albergue had not reopened since covid closures (common in this time) and the recommended pension was closed for a family celebration. Ooops. There was no way I was walking on, nor was I going back so I decided to find a hotel room and hope Fi would be ok with it.

If I am honest I don’t mind a private room. My sister and I ended up booking private rooms a lot along the Camino Frances. These were often attached to private albergues so not much more expensive when travelling with two. Fi was having trouble with her phone and would only randomly get sms texts from me when in range. In what is usually a hyperconnected world we were often without contact.

Our walk has become a walk where I walk ahead and hope I make a destination and accommodation decision that works for both of us. To be sure, I prepared a sweetener for her arrival. I popped down to the supermarket and stocked us up with a picnic for her arrival. Aquarius (the classic camino hydration drink), fruit, chocolate, some salt (crisps) and nuts for tomorrow. Lucky! She approved of both, thehotel and the picnic 🙂 Ph-ew.

Along the last 5kms of her walk today Fi met Jo from Belgium. I think she is better at meeting people along the way than me. I am always so focussed on walking and walking past people. I do walk fast and I do like to be at my accommodation earlier in the day. I can then take a long stop there rather than lots of little breaks. It’s the same with airport departures, I just need to get to check in. It doesn’t mean I miss things. I am usually solo so I see it all. I take photos, I think a lot and I breathe it all in, deeply. I still flow. I just do it my way.

We ran into Fi’s new mate Jo as we hit the laneways for dinner and together we spend a few cozy hours of sitting, chatting, nibbling pinchos and sipping a glass of white wine. How absolutely perfect. A great day of hiking and this, an unexpected evening of great company and story sharing. We enjoyed it all amongst the vivacious Spanish way of living in this traditional, picturesque fishing village. Spaniards will usually move from bar to bar, whereas we, with our tired feet and grateful souls were happy to sit at the one that had a free outside table and just chill. While the camino is about the walking, it is also about this, unexpected connections and foodie experiences. I will sleep happy.

Highlight:

All the different elements of this unplanned day. The beautiful long uninterrupted walk, beginning to meet up with people, barefoot walking along the ocean and the joy of having a great mate to share this week with.

Ho hum:

As I wander through farms and countryside I begin to wonder do I still dream of this kind of life? A country life. Do I have it in me? Another reinvention or has time, this unplanned, unexpected year of pandemic life changed things, changed me? Who am I now?

Handy gear tips:

2L Platypus sort water bladder.

1L Platypus soft bottle.

Camino accomodation, Camino del Norte, Camino hiking

Camino del Norte – Day 1 Irún to San Sebastián

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Cuando el sol es perfecto! When the sun is perfect!

Date: 14th October, 2021

Section: Irún to Donostia – San Sebastián

Region: The Basque Country

Distance: 26 kms

Average temp: 26°C

Time walking: 5hrs 30

Ascent: 865 metres

Decent: 927 metres

Staying: Donostia – San Sebastián

A Room In The City – a private hostel.

Dorm for 6 people, €18 each per night.

Recommend, yes ✔️nice clean beds, lockable pack drawer, nice outdoor terrace area, clean and roomy bathrooms.

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

After a delicious (read: two mates, pinchos, vino blanco, comfy bed and no bunks – yet) overnight in Irún we head out around 9am to begin our Camino del Norte. A quick first morning photo. It’s fair to say our eyes were sparking, our smiles rhapsodic and our steps, well, naturally they were springy with first day enthusiasm. Oh la la adventure! Yes we had those excited feels as we set off in search of our first yellow arrow.

As happens when you stop along a city street on the camino a local will guide you towards where you need to be. Sometimes (often), they will go off their path to walk you to your correct path. Today, it was an elderly Spaniard with all the hand expressions and finger pointing towards the mountains. He wanted to be sure we took the high path over mountain. ‘El sol es perfecto’ he said (the sun is perfect). I actually thought he may well walk with us!

We took the high path. The one with the sign for alpinist pilgrims, ha ha that sounds hardcore adventurous doesn’t it! Our Spanish guide was right is was a beautiful and sunny day. Perfect for climbing and walking in mountains. And there on this first day, in the first few hours we found ourselves straight into the camino mode. The birds were chirping, the space felt infinite, the air fresh and the noise of the world just faded away. I pinch myself – what a privilege it is to be able to walk a long walk. I remind myself – I really must take good care of myself so I can keep doing do this for a looooooong time.

There was a whole lot of belly laughter walking with Fi and a whole lot of (probably more) sweat! My muscles were so warm that at one stage I stretched my shoulders back and my back did a beautiful crack, my favourite Melbourne osteo would have called it a hard crunch! The most satisfying type, similar to what happens when your favourite osteopath or chiropractor realigns your spine. Hmm … possibly there’s something in that, the natural way to align your spine – just get hot, sweaty, carry a pack and add hours and hours of hiking up and down mountains.

You never know what lays ahead along the camino and we were spoilt from the beginning of the day. Not long had we been walking when we come upon a quaint 16th century church and expansive views over the Bidasoa valley. Always, I’m reminded how ancient these paths are as we wander past neolithic dolmans, medieval towers and castle ruins. Mostly though, it was the feeling of traversing the top of a mountain, descending through forest paths, taking a surprise water taxi and Spanish farm life existing alongside the camino – as it probably always has. It is humbling to walk here in Spain. We really are a drop in the ocean, us people and this moment in time.

We didn’t come across many pilgrims today along the path and we didn’t meet any until our arrival in San Sebastián. I arrived in a little earlier than Fi and found my way to the hostel. So far we are sharing with a German pilgrim (Peter) and his daughter (Jenny). Peter had walked the Norte camino before. He was here to walk this one with his daughter for her first time. They seemed very friendly but were heading out into town to explore and eat so we didn’t chat long.

After showering and rinsing my clothes in the shower I did my usual post walk, arrive at my accommodation routine. This was the routine my sister and I did every day on the Camino Frances.

  • Find a place to hang the daily washing and hope it will dry. If not my pack will be a washing line with clothes hanging from it tomorrow
  • Tiger balm my feet, give them a little massage or roll on ball and rest them by keeping them upright until dinner
  • Fill the 1L water bladder and sip it down (maybe add a sachet of electrolytes), eat an orange or a banana
  • Write in my journal, look over my photos of the day, post something and have a read of tomorrow’s stage

I’ve been to San Sebastián before, it’s one of my favourite cities. Definitely top 3 in Europe, perhaps even number 1 in Spain. This wasn’t like a usual San Seb visit. Once Fi arrives back and is showered we head out for dinner. Normally, I am standing in the cobblestone lanes, working my way through delicious pinchos, this is not happening tonight. A. There’s the need to sit, non negotiable for feet that have just hiked 25kms. And B. There’s the real need not to have to make too many decisions! It was a long day.

Because tonight we are staying in a hostel and not a pilgrim’s albergue there’s no curfew. Still, we are tired so after dinner, a lovely sit down plated affair we head back for an early night. Everyone else is already back in the room and already quietly in bed. I’m happy there are no party animals who will arrive in later. Now I can crawl my contented body into my bunk bed, draw the little privacy curtain and close this day. Ear plugs in, eye mask on – it’s time to sleep.

Highlight:

Knowing that there were a million reasons not to say yes to this spontaneous and unplanned adventure but deeply glad that I did. The kids will be fine, traveling is happening again (we have vax QR codes to make it happen ;)) and a long walk combined with the ease of the camino, feels like right where I need to be.

Today’s ho hum:

Ok, so I thought we’d booked a female only room. When I saw Peter in the room I mentioned that to him. Then I went straight down to reception and checked. It was a mixed dorm. Did I have to say something, did it even matter? I mean honestly dorms are rarely separated on the camino or in hostels. I didn’t feel unsafe. When I returned I think he was a bit nervous, he really wanted me to know he was here with his daughter and for me to meet her. I could have handled that better, just quietly gone and checked at reception. Hmm … maybe a bit of cooped up covid tension to address.