Yes, we’re overly familiar with this quote. And yes, it’s an overused cliché in travel writing but some lost is a good lost don’t you think? Read along as I share my tales of walking along the north coast of Spain along the Camino Del Norte. Me, my thoughts, the trail and all I need in my backpack. Starting each day in one place and ending it in another. Lost in the days as they unfold. Lost in my love of wandering. Lost in a long walk. A camino. Aaah. Good lost.
From breakfast and about to begin our walk, we pose for a photo. A family portrait. Peter, Lydia, Jo, Ricky, Me, Fi, Ulises and Jenny. Oh and the little dog Jenny wants to take with her. This motley crew, this camino family of ours. A camino family is a part of the camino experience. In my experience you don’t seek your family it builds around you. I am grateful for this group of humans who found me on this path. My heart is fuller and I am richer for having known them. If I look at this photo I can think of something I’ve learnt from each of them. In 6 days, this happened. How magical.
Today Fi and I decide to walk our last day together. It feels important for us to walk into Bilbao, our last stop along this camino stage together. Starting and finishing together. Plus, I guess it will be nice to give Jo a win. Ha ha. 😉 We walk through the forests and take our time to walk, stopping for coffee and tapas in a small village along the way. At some point we leave the lush of the forest and begin the walk along the road. It feels looooong!
We have to earn our stay in the beautiful town of Bilbao. There is a cracking hill on the way in and the temp is averaging 29 degrees C. It is a pretty walk in, but also, it’s pretty steep! It is a hard slog. I prefer not to stop and start on the big climbs so I will meet Fi at the top. Up I go. From the top you can see the entire city of Bilbao. It is magnificent. I find Ricky asleep in some parklands at the top of the hill, he tends to catch up on sleep along the way. Jo is also here, doing his foot care routine. They make their way in to Bilbao as I take a break here to wait for Fi so we can begin our final decent of this walk into Bilbao.
What goes up, must come down! MAN, it feels like it takes forever to get down into Bilbao as we wind our way in through the laneways, city parklands and across the river towards our hotel. We are spent by this time. So spent that we decide to have an Aquarius (Spanish electrolyte drink) and a celebratory beer with some crisps a few doors before our hotel. We have booked a hotel in Bilbao as a treat. There’s a promise of a comfy bed, lux bathroom, no more washing clothes in sinks and we don’t need to wake early to walk. We stop even with the lure of this. We are just too tired, sweaty and gross to walk in yet. We struggle to drink the celebratory beer we’ve ordered, eventually we compose ourselves and make our way to check in.
After a nice warm shower, some time with our feet up and fresh hair, we wander into the old city of Bilbao to meet up with the crew for one last dinner together. I don’t have city clothes. Normally, this doesn’t worry me as I just get around in my hiking kit. This feels different though. We are finished, off the camino and we’re on a city break. When I walked the Camino Frances we didn’t really take city breaks. Fi has packed a scarf, it is perfect to dress up a hiking top. I’m adding this to my list of things I need to pack next time. Fi has taught me a lot about little essentials and camino tricks.
While in town I spot a cute summer skirt. Hmmm should I? I decide that YES I should! So I buy it, keep it on and put my leggings in my bag. I am now only half a pilgrim. Cute skirt with hiking top and hiking sandals. Maybe next time I will pack a light summer dress for such situations. I like these city finishes and Spanish town evenings along the Norte.
We arrive in the old town and meet everyone at the square for dinner. As we are eating I spot a colleague and his wife from work. Another small world within a BIG world moment. After some tapas and a glass of wine we bid farewell and good luck to everyone. Most are continuing on and some of us are heading home. Such is the way of the camino. Comings and goings. Will you meet again, you never know. Some you do and some you don’t. Like life! Fi and I promise to visit Jo and his family in Belgium. At time of writing, we have kept in touch but no visits. Fi is now back in Oz. Many have been to visit Ulises in the Canary Islands though!
A camino in sections! One down. One to ponder before beginning the next. One with experiences and lessons that need time to sink in before I begin to plan the next one. One to savour as a new way of walking a camino unfolds, a camino in stages. Tomorrow, I will visit the Guggenheim museum and wander as a tourist. A tourist who has just had one amazing adventure, whose soul is sparking even though her feet are tired.
Highlight:
To have finally written this series of posts from the first section of my Camino del Notre. It has taken me back to a special time with the added gift of hindsight. I don’t take this time for granted. I am grateful to have shared this section with Fi and Jo, who both in their sweet way have imprinted themselves in my heart and taught me I needed to be a little more open, less reserved and trusting of connection. xx
Ho hum:
After having walking the Camino Frances previously for 4 weeks I thought I knew how to do a camino. Ha! I’m still learning all the time. There is no one way and what suits you one day might be different the next. Ho hum though, it humbles me, to not know, to learn from those I meet and the experiences I gather.
For me there is no need for an alarm on a camino. The nights are early so the mornings too fall into a natural early rhythm. The preparation to begin the day is done the night before, my water bladder is full, my pack is packed, the day’s clothes are laid out and ready. I’m up just before the sun rises this morning. Without even thinking I’m dressed in my hiking gear, my laces are tied and my pack is on. I’m excited and as the first light hits I’m ready to walk.
This morning Jo is also ready and we set off together. We’re not the only ones up. As we leave the village we see the daily bread has already been delivered to the doors of the locals. Before long we make it up to the monastery where most of the pilgrims on the trail would have stayed last night.
One of the things I love about this walk is that we walk amongst everyday life. We meet the locals in their towns, see them in their gardens, on the school run, doing their daily walks and foraging for mushrooms. We walk the same medieval rock paths that have existed for centuries and will do for many more. This is home to them and for now it is home to us.
At some point I lose Jo. We start to play a game of tag. As I pass another of our friends I send a photo! Germany, Japan, America, Spain. Before long I have hiked past them all. Ha ha I’m not competitive at all. No, not me.
As I make it into the town of Gernika-Lumo I meet Fi. She has cabbed in to town today due to injury and is enjoying a day in this pretty town. It is so perfect and a classic camino coincidence that she is the first person I see as I arrive in town. We have some lunch together. Before long Jo finds us and as we leave the town we stop at the famous Gernika oak tree. Or what is left of it. There is a lot of history in this town. I almost feel guilty about walking on and not taking it all in. Alas, we are not staying here so I will put it on my list of cool towns to visit in North Spain another time. I don’t feel this is my last time in these parts.
Up and out of Gernika we hike. I do love the steepness of this trail. It reminds my heart to beat. It reminds me that I’m alive and how much I love this mountain goat feeling. Before long we arrive at our albergue and from the moment of arrival we all love it. It’s a family project. A farmhouse that has been in the family for over 300 years, generations of the same family have lived here. The downstairs of this traditional Basque Country farm house started as a barn, then it housed a wine press that produced wine for the locals to drink (on Saturdays) and now it’s an albergue that accommodates pilgrims and hikers along the camino. It is special. I do recommend staying here if you’re walking you Camino del Norte.
Slowly, all the pilgrims we’ve met along the way from Irun began to arrive here at Pozueta. We are treated to an absolutely delicious home cooked community meal. We learn a lot in conversation with our host about Basque life and traditions. Such things as secret men’s gastronomic societies, pelota games, comedy and theatre sports – it’s an incredibly rich culture the Basque culture. We chat into the night beyond a magical sunset and under the watchful gaze of a full moon.
Highlight:
Ending the day with beautiful people, in this wonderful home under these skies is more than a highlight. It is a memory I will treasure forever. And fitting as our last night along this camino for now. Tomorrow is Fi and my last day of walking. I am excited for Jo and the others who are continuing on their way.
Ho hum:
When I look at the beginning of this day until its end I am amazed by it. Days are long. There is so much room in a day for so many small things. Small things add up. Just keep moving. Ho hum this feels like a good lesson for me.
The reward of yesterday’s extra hiking to stay in the mountains just kept giving! This morning it gave in the form of a sunrise hike. This morning was our earliest start along this camino and it was dark. I find it so much easier to get out early when you’re in a dorm room, everyone starts shuffling early. I forgot to pack my head torch. Gosh I’ve made a few rookie packing mistakes so far, out of practice! I even forgot a towel. No wonder my pack is super light. I’m keeping notes for next time, fold away bag, a towel and the head torch because it gives you the freedom to leave early!
Once again I am caught out by the lack of infrastructure on the del Norte. Don’t get me wrong it is GREAT to not have the sounds or bustle of of people highways and towns for km after km, in the case of today 18kms of silence (and no toilets)! But for sure it would have been nice to have an extra banana or a juicy Spanish orange in my pack. I had an apple and some almonds in my pack so this kept me going. However, the morning coffee eluded me! I had to hike far to enjoy the pleasure of my breaky caffeine and tapa today.
Today I felt so strong. I powered through the walk on my sturdy legs. Post covid time they aren’t in the same shape they used to be. I so often get annoyed with my legs, but the places they can take me. I should appreciate them more. It was mostly a solo walking day for me. I enjoyed the time to walk my fast pace and to be amongst this privileged experience.
I still hike faster than most people and it always become somewhat of a joke along my caminos. Jo is determined to out walk me! Ha ha good luck, he’s not the first. 😜 No doubt the run streak has helped this time. The hiking in The Netherlands is flat and my Aussie mountain strength will surely wear thin at some point without the same terrain to train and walk in daily. For now though, I’m still a mountain goat.
I thought a lot about home (dutch home) and my family today. After spending so much time together over the past corona years I miss them more than normal when I’m away. I do however think it’s important to get out again, to begin live without fear and do physical things to shift the energy of this time. The camino with the people you wouldn’t normally meet and the expansiveness of this route certainly takes you out of small spaces and small thinking. The trail is divine today. And amongst nature, without a soul insight or any distraction all I can do is walk. After a fun night of chat, this is my jam.
Tonight we had plans to stay at a monastery with the crew. It would be a ‘something different’ experience. As the day drew on I didn’t feel the desire to stay there. It was hot and sweaty and I needed to get myself organised with some space and facilities. Just before the monastery I found a small private albergue that reminded me of a ski chalet. I decided to check in as it was early afternoon and to make use of the facilities. There wasn’t a restaurant in town that was serving dinner nor was there an open shop. It is out of season and still quiet because of corona. Luckily, there was a vending machine with some snacks, two minute noodles and dehydrated pasta dishes. Not the best of food, I know! But better than nothing when you have hiked all day.
I let Fi know and she agrees this sounds just like what we need. She will meet me here rather than the monastery. It has been a big day. I enjoyed the extra long shower, I washed absolutely everything and I pottered around comfortably getting my few things organised. The bar across the road let me bring a glass of beer over as long as I promised to return the glass. LOL. No meals or food but drinks are being served. So, I sat on the terrace with my journal and guide book as I wait for Fi.
In the meantime I hear from Jo! He is up at the monastery but he also wants a bit more comfort. He hikes back down to stay with Fi and I. We are our little crew within a crew. I return the beer glass and grab a bottle of wine for us to share over dinner. With my energy restored Fi arrives. Time for her to have the nicest, longest shower and to leave her washing to for me to put in. We are in this together. I wash her clothes and later she cooks for me.
In the end no one else arrives at the albergue and we could have taken a cheaper bunk bed in an empty dorm room. Nevermind, the vending machine food was cheap. The three of us share a meal, talk all the things, fix the world’s education system and giggle at Jo’s ‘just in case I might need it’ packed essentials. In all fairness his in case he needed it dried stock did add flavour to the packet risotto dish!
Highlight:
I am glad I didn’t push on today and made the choice to do something different to what I thought I should experience. I am sure one day I will stay at a monastery, tonight wasn’t that night.
Ho hum:
On my last camino we ate loads of big meals and pastas most days. This camino it doesn’t feel so necessary and it is definitely a more vigorous hike. It helps that there is far more seafood and tapas on offer here. I ponder this, how often do I find myself doing what I think I should or what is habit.
Handy gear tips:
Not so much gear but food supplies. Fresh food supplies don’t hurt along this camino. You never know how far you will be without somewhere to refuel or buy/pick your fuel! I’m now never without an orange, apple and mixed nuts!
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Camino Tales 