All Camino routes (resources), Camino pilgrim stories

Which Camino Route, Which Section? Endless Options!

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If you’ve started your camino research, it’s likely you’ve realised that your camino options are endless. You can find almost 300 listed caminos criss crossing countless countries. You can choose from any one of these routes, walk the entire route, choose a section of a route, bus some or even come back next time to where you left off. Mountains, oceans, forests, inland, coastal and urban trails, wine regions, tapa regions, quaint villages, farmscapes, popular or more desolate paths. The options are endless. Traditionally, a pilgrim began their camino from home, some pilgrims still do!

While walking the Camino Frances I met Miriam from Amsterdam. For the past 14 years she has set off for two weeks in April to walk her camino. Each year she picks up where she last left off, each time getting a little closer towards Santiago and to gaining her compostella. Funny story, she also lived most of her life in the same village we currently live in. We had trained walking in the same forests. A classic camino/travel coincidence! This was back in 2018 in Cirauqui, one of the quaint hilltop Spanish villages along way to Santiago de Compostella. I guess she has walked into Santiago by now.

Perhaps Miriam will even walk back to Amsterdam from Santiago!?! This is also not completely uncommon. Last year along the way I met John, an American who had learnt Spanish during the covid lockdowns. When the camino opened again he decided to walk it to practice his Spanish. John, a retiree with time on his hands, decided upon his arrival in Santiago to turnaround and walk back to St Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP). Naturally, he is fluent now. Clever John, I did not learn a language during lockdowns! I am trying again now though John. Meeting these characters and hearing their interesting stories is one of the reasons I keep going back. You never know who you will meet and who will inspire your life along the camino.

The most popular camino with its brilliant pilgrim infrastructure is the Camino Frances and the most beautiful is thought to be the Camino del Norte, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Camino Primitivo is the most challenging and the Camino Ingles is where the English and Irish pilgrims would traditionally begin after crossing the channel into Spain. Or, perhaps walking the Portugese coast interests you. Walking your camino is now more popular than ever with 2022 recording the highest number of pilgrims in the past decade. A camino, it seems is high on many people’s ‘wish to experience in life’ list.

Of course, it isn’t doable or even desirable for many to start from home like Miriam, or to walk to and from SJPDP like John. So it’s a choice of which route, or which section along the camino. When you come from a long way, like OZ or the Americas it isn’t always easy to dedicate the 4-5 weeks required to walk the entire length of the camino. Depending on time available or distance desired many choose to start at Sarria. This is the last 100kms point and is the distance required to gain a compostella certificate. Some, like sweet Al (above) from Canada choose to walk from a bigger city such as Leon. Or, like my mates Jenny and Piet (below) from Sydney, whom I met last year when I was walking the first section of the Camino Frances with my son, a combination is better. They started in SJPDP, walked a few weeks, took a bus through a few sections and hoped back on the trail later. Your camino is a real life ‘choose your own adventure’ story.

Personally, I have competed a full Camino Frances, the shorter Camino Finisterre and Muxia and have four other caminos on the go. Yes, four! (There’s apparently a term for that … a camino tragic.) I am nearly ready to complete the third section of the Camino del Norte. I am one section into the Camino Frances with my son. We will return later this year for the next one. Also, later this year my bestie from Oz is coming to do the last couple of hundred kms of the Camino Frances with me, or more I am going with her! And like Miriam, I also began walking from my home. My from home camino is to Rome and it follows European camino paths. lt’s a slow boiler this one, I seem to struggle to fit this camino in! I am looking forward to sharing these caminos with you in these pages.

Basically! Your camino begins wherever you choose to start! The one you plan and travel to or simply when you put your shoes on and walk outside.

Camino packing, Camino planning, Uncategorized

Camino Packing – My Camino First Aid Kit

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Yes! It is true, you can find a farmacia (pharmacy) vending machine stocked with FirstAid supplies along the camino. This did give me a giggle when I first spotted one. You will also find many farmacias along the camino to purchase all your first aid requirements. Just look for the neon green cross, if it’s on, you’re in luck.

We’re all trying to keep those packed kgs low. What do they say ‘carry less than 10% of your body weight’. BUT, if like me you like to be prepared, a little kit is a handy way to deal with any niggles as early as possible. Little niggles can become bigger problems later, and along our camino, we all want to stay healthy and keep walking. Right?!

Obviously prevention is best, so shoes, socks, training, foot care, hydration ya da ya da. However, even with our best efforts niggles and problems can occur. Over the years and many camino and hiking trips later I’ve created the kit list below that works for me. (Save some grams by not packing the packaging.)

💫 👣💫 If we don’t need to use what bring, just maybe we’ll come across someone who does.

My Camino essential FirstAid kit

  • Tiger balm (rub into feet daily after shower)
  • Small ball to roll under feet at the end of the day
  • Blister patches (compeed)
  • Bandaids
  • Electrolyte sachets (to pop in my water bottle on the big days)
  • Sunscreen and lip balm with UV protection
  • Antibacterial hand gel
  • Painkillers (paracetamol)
  • Anti inflammatories
  • Repellent, bug bite cream and antihistamines*
  • Sterilised needle and alcohol swabs**

My Camino FirstAid Kit

Weighing in at 300 grams.

* I have an allergy to bed bug bites. I know, no one wants to hear about bed bugs but they happen. I have had them in a donative, a private albergue and a pricey hotel. Not along every camino, but 3/5 of them. Being able to manage the itch and my reaction right away makes for a far more pleasant experience. I learnt the hard way after walking a whole day before finding a farmacia. I won’t share a photo but think hives, huge itchy red angry ones! Eeek. Just writing this makes me itch, fingers crossed for my next one. Oh and if I am out of antihistamines I buy them in Spain before I leave, the farmacias there are good like that.

** This is a new edition for me. How to treat blisters is controversial. I tend to go with deal with them directly as soon as you feel them by supporting and protecting them with compeed, rather than risk infection by popping them myself. Of course prevention is best. I have managed to avoid them for many caminos but the last two I was wearing a different trail runner and I wasn’t so lucky. I had a blister on the insides of my big toes and they needed the pressure removed. I waited too long and ended up with a lot of pain and losing toe nails. This time I will be prepared if it happens again. Also, I am back in my trusted brand of hiking shoe so hopefully no issues. There are places along the way to get foot care if needed and of course seeking proper care is smart and preferable. Your albergue can often help you locate where.

*** My husband (the gear freak) always packs an emergency blanket. I read recently of a few people who became hypothermic after crossing the Pyrenees in bad weather. I won’t be in any big mountains so will leave it out this time. Perhaps when I get to the Primativo camino again.

Right … digging out the silk sleeping liner that apparently those gross little bugs hate and booking in a pedicure now to be sure my toes are in top shape before I leave!

Any other suggestions?

I share my shower essentials here in My Camino Shower Kit.

Other resources:

Camino packing, Camino planning, Camino TIPS

The Credencial del Peregrino, Your Official Pilgrim Passport Along The Camino

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One of your most exciting packing essentials is your credencial del peregrino as it’s known on the trail your camino passport. Your own little cardboard concertina of blank pages. Day by day you will slowly fill these blank pages with stamps as you walk, or cycle your way along your chosen route towards Santiago de Compostela.

What is it?

The credential was the official documentation that safeguarded pilgrims in medieval times. While it is not a ‘must’ to carry along the camino now, it is a must to obtain your compostela when you reach Santiago. It also allows you to stay in pilgrim accommodations and obtain pilgrim meals. It is proof of your walk and also sentimentally, it’s a special keepsake of your adventure along the camino.

What do you do with it?

As you walk your camino you collect stamps along the pilgrimage route. Mostly, you will collect your stamp from where you are sleeping. Whether that is at an albergue, hostel or hotel. You can also obtain them along the route at churches, cathedrals, tourist offices, pilgrim offices and more. Getting your stamps is not difficult. So don’t worry if you’re camping! As mentioned you will collect one a day and for the last 100 (walking) or 200 (cycling) you will need two stamps. Again, even though you need two, these are easy to get.

A note from the official pilgrims office. “… if you only do the minimum required distance (last 100 walking or 200 km by bike), you must always get your Credencial stamped at the start and end of each stage, including the corresponding date, to show that the pilgrim has resumed the Way in the same place where they last stopped (i.e. you should always get the stamp at the starting point even though you have already stamped the card in the same place at the end of the previous stage).”

Fun fact:

Where to get a wine with your stamp!

After you pass through Bodegas de Irache you will find the Fuente del Vino (the wine fountain). Yes, actual red wine from a winery. The idea of the wine fountain, which is open to all is apparently to offer motivation to fatigued pilgrims! You can also get a stamp with a smile from the winery. We stopped for both.

Where do you get it?

You can order your pilgrim passport before you leave for your camino, you will find some links below to help with this. You can also buy a passport upon arrival in most main starting points at either the pilgrim office such as St Jean Pied de Port, at some churches or cathedrals. Some albergues also sell them. In the off season it can be harder if offices and albergues are closed. I once met a pilgrim wandering around Irun looking for somewhere to buy himself a passport before he could begin!

Worldwide associations approved by the pilgrims office in Santiago are listed here.

I have purchased mine from Casa Ivar previously. Ivar ships worldwide. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟

Or from your local friends of the camino group …

Australian Pilgrims
British pilgrims
American Pilgrims
Irish Pilgrims
Canadian Pilgrims
South African Pilgrims

I hope you found this helpful! If you have walked a camino did you get your credential before or upon arrival? I always get mine before as it is one less thing to worry about when I arrive. I like to arrive walk ready. Shout out if you have any questions or comments.

Buen Camino!

Camino accomodation

Le Refuge Orrison, The First Stop Out of St Jean Pied de Port. To Stop or Not?

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The camino season begins with the arrival of spring in Southern Europe and with it many of the albergues and refuges that have been closed for the winter season will reopen. For those pilgrims who are starting out of St. Jean Pied de Port in France and taking the Napolèon route across the the Pyrenees, here is a question/option for you. At about the 8km mark you will walk to Le Refuge Orrison. Here, there is an option to stop overnight, or you can push on the extra 17kms or so up and over the pyrenees and into Roncesvalles in Spain.

I’ve done it both ways and I can tell you my preference would be to stop. It was a pilgrim tip I had read on a blog and one that I have shared with anyone I know who is setting out on their first camino. It is a tip that has always been appreciated. It may not sound much, but 8kms up hill on your first day is a challenging beginning as your feet, body and mind settles into your camino. The Napolèon route is strenuous and it’s mountainous so it is susceptible to the intensity of all the elements. Sun, wind, snow, rain. I’ve hiked it in all of these conditions and the time I stopped at Orrison was by far the kindest way to begin such a long walk.

Aside from the physicality of the walk, staying at Orrison is an experience. It is a way to acclimatise to walking your camino, to get used to albergue/camino life early in the day and not when you’re tired and spent! Those days will come. At Orrison there’s a special group meal where everyone shares their reason for walking. Of all the places I stayed, this night and these people, and their reasons have stuck with me. You’ll meet people who you may well see over the next week/s while you walk, we did. Lastly, but by no means leastly if you ‘re lucky, you will be rewarded with a spectacular mountain sunset and sunrise.

Accommodation is in dorm rooms. The rate includes dinner and breakfast and a token for a 5 minute shower. There are also a few private chalets if your budget stretches a little more. The restaurant has plenty of tables to spend your afternoon in ‘camino’ vibe mode. Those who wish to join in and chat with others will find each other. And those who prefer to write, read or ponder a little more quietly will also find their space.

Tips!

  • You do need to prebook, you can do that directly on the Refuge Orrison website. The night I stayed I saw many people miss out.
  • There is a water fountain at Orrison to fill your bottles.
  • It is a lovely stop for coffee and a soup or sandwich if you are walking on.
  • You can order a baguette for lunch to take the following day if you stay. From here there is only a food truck that may or may not be on the mountain. No food supplies is a risk.
  • Ear plugs … you will always need earplugs if you’re staying in a dorm, always.
  • Get there early for a bottom bunk, if that’s your preference.
  • It’s seasonal!

Have you stayed at Orisson? What was your experience?