Tag Archives: Camino Family

Camino accomodation, Camino del Norte, Camino hiking

Camino del Norte – Day 8 Portugalete to Castro-Urdiales

1 Comment

Life is full of twists and turns – Arrieros Somos Y En El Camino Nos Encontraremos

Date: 14th July, 2022

Section: Portugalete to Castro-Urdiales

Region: Cantabria

Distance: 26.86km

Average temp: 31 degrees

Time walking: 5 hours

Ascent: 407m

Decent: 443m

Staying: Castro-Urdiales

Pensión La Mar – Small pensión, single room €35 per night

Recommend, yes ✔️comfy bed, clean, well located, cobblestones streets with excellent tapas (pinchos) bars on the doorstep!

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

A proper camino morning start! Yesterday’s hard hiking and hot weather obviously didn’t wear me out because I was super organised and ready to leave this morning. This is the nice thing about your own room, it’s easy to spread out. Water in the hiking bladder, clothes ready, guide book read and marked, fruit to start the morning. Walking out of Portugalete there are two options. Take the travelator up the hill or walk. No joke. I walked given that I was fresh and excited but I could see how in the heat of the day this travelator could be enticing, a given probably. 😉

Why do I love the camino?

This is a question I am asked often.

Honestly, it is just so easy. You can just rock up and walk. This works really well for me, especially easy for shorter trips because we are currently living in Europe. There is minimal planning required and I use the same kit each time (mostly). This is my fourth trip along a Spanish camino, always a different hiking route but the formula is the same. Pack light, arrive, get up to walk, find your way, eat along the way, find where to stay, wash yourself, wash your gear for tomorrow, get in your second set of clothes, immerse yourself in Spanish camino life. The more you walk the more I think you find your own rhythm. But do not be fooled into thinking that I have it all down pat and that there are no challenges. There are, today had challenges.

One of the routines or rhythms that works for me and that I actually love a lot is to hike to breakfast. Today it was a 15km hike before I sat down to a coffee and pulled pork tacos, there was even an ocean view. I recently, (the day before this camino) turned 50 so I am of the age where protein with each meal is so important for women, especially on a day where I’m hiking almost 30kms. Some stretches along the camino can be tricky to get food with colour and protein but so far along the Norte since Bilbao it has been relatively easy. I’m not normally a pork eater, but sometimes I find I need to adjust to get what I need. Otherwise I’m eating bread and tortilla every meal!

The del Norte begins in the Basque region and now I’ve hiked into the wild beauty of the Cantabrian region. Once again I am out of cities and the landscape just so pleasurable. I walked past animals, wild growing produce, through mountain tunnels, up fairytale stairwells, through quaint villages all the while flanked by the sea. I like to think I will swim along the way but it is harder than is sounds to simply stop with all your gear and jump in – for me at least. Perhaps if I stay seaside it will be a nice evening thing to do. I am happy to take my shoes off and walk along the sand where possible though. Sea air, salty feet – nothing like it!

In amongst all this delightful walking there were some tears. I walked further than planned. My guide book is a little out of date and I walked too long without food, lost the path and couldn’t find the place I had planned to stay. It no longer existed! It has been my experience that people along the camino are kind and helpful. Again today this was my experience of locals, they happily assisted me with my terrible Spanish to find what I needed, a kitchen was even opened to cook me a plate of scallops.

I really don’t take this privilege I have of walking along the camino for granted. Yes, it is hard and the tears are real and for sure I’m uncomfortable sometimes. I know that my uncomfortableness is within a comfortable place. Even when I am hurting and am feeling unsure and am struggling with decisions; do I stop, do I stay, walk here, walk there??? I am comfortably uncomfortable. Maybe this is a little about where I am in life. Oh the camino, there you go taking me deep into myself again.

My day ended up in Castro-Urdiales where I had a single room booked in a little pénsion. I booked it while refuelling on the scollops. Maybe there is an Albergue in town but it’s been a long day and I don’t think I’m ready to share a room or bathroom. I haven’t met anyone yet and the trails are very quiet. This is ok for me, but tomorrow I think I will be ready to find some interesting conversation … but first dinner!

Just because we are out of the Basque Region doesn’t mean the food tastes have slipped. I thoroughly enjoyed some pinchos and a glass or two of Verdejo tonight. Yes, thorougly. I’m so glad to have my own space again tonight to return home to and yes, tomorrow is another day.

Highlight:

The countryside was so beautiful today. Aside from the short moments spent with the nuances of the guidebook and the questioning/second guessing of myself it was absolutely blissful walking amongst such beauty.

Ho hum:

Where has the trust in my decisions and decision making ability gone? This I’d like to ponder, is it a post pandemic thing, an age thing, a life stage thing, a confidence thing? Hiking is a great way to get curious – it shows you yourself.

Camino accomodation, Camino del Norte, Camino hiking

Camino del Norte – Day 7 Bilbao to Portugalete

1 Comment

Everybody comes back to the places where he or she loved life – Uno siempre vuelve a los lugares donde amó a la vida. 

Date: 13th July, 2022

Section: Bilbao to Portugalete

Region: The Basque Country

Distance: 11.5kms

Average temp: 36°C

Time walking: 2.5 hrs

Ascent: 83 metres

Decent: 81 metres

Staying: Portugalete

Puente Colgante Boutique Hotel – Private Hotel €90 per night

Recommend, yes ✔️comfy bed, clean, well located, beautiful restaurant for dinner.

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

It started off like any normal day in my Dutch life! I cycled the littlest one to school for his last day of the school year and put a few home fires out. I did leave a lot of unfinished things…but you know I had a bus, a train and a plane to catch.

By the late afternoon I was in the Bilbao airport toilets flipping from school mum to hiking chick. Comfy plane pants to hiking pants, hiking sandals to hiking shoes, from a top knot hairstyle to a low pony (so my cap fits), completing my transformation with the application of a shit ton of sunscreen – sheesh it’s hot here! I jumped into a taxi and headed straight to the Guggenheim Museum (where I left off last October) to start walking. I was back on the camino and feeling ever so smug and proud of myself for how today started and finished. Landing here in this moment ready to hike feels like an achievement.

It’s never nice hiking out of big cities (think soulless industrial sprawl) it’s always best done in the morning when you’re fresh, but this is where I was. And boy was I here 37 degree heat and hiking on and amongst the concrete. Even though it was only 11.5 kms it was probably one of the most difficult hikes I’ve done, so hot and concrete’y! I was so thrilled to make it to Puente Colgante for the 45c boat trip across the river and into the old town of Portugalete.

My hotel was just 100m away from where the boat docked. I didn’t wing it tonight. After my full day I needed a room and my own shower to be waiting. I did not want to risk having to hike on and also it’s nice on day 1 to get myself gently into the flow. Tomorrow I’ll wing it, there seems to be plenty of space in the towns.

The camino is hard hiking for sure but also it’s enjoyable touristing. With the day’s hiking finished it’s time for the after hike camino life. Freshly showered and back in comfy pants, hiking sandals and the top knot (lazy hairdo) reinstated it’s time to venture out and see life happening on the streets. After a brief wander I decided on the €20 three course set menu at the hotel. It was delicious. My favourite dishes included the basque squid with leak and caramelised onion, quinoa with beets and vegetables. The gastronomy of the basque region never disappoints.

It was probably the epitome of my perfect version of self care in this ‘wellness’ inspired era. Hard hiking followed by a a slow meal and time to write in my journal and also share some photos in my digital instagram journal. All the feels really; in my cosy corner of this restaurant, totally in my lane and back on the trail adventuring and sharing it with all of you fellow wanderlusters. What will this stage of the camino bring? No expectations, I am open to it. Aahhh…the WONDER of travel.

Highlight:

It has to be this moment of feeling so at peace with this day and where I am. It is rather magical, like I could achieve or be anything. I am in my other world, indulging the part of me that doesn’t require me to be anything for anyone else. I just get to do me. The adventurer. The dreamer.

Ho hum:

It’s good to take a break from things sometimes but never too long if they matter to who you are. It is important to be who you are, to give yourself what you need and to be in your secret world from time to time. That place only you know – where your mind is free to dream, imagine, reflect and plan for yourself.

Camino accomodation, Camino del Norte, Camino hiking

Camino del Norte – Day 6 Pozueta to Bilbao

3 Comments

Walker, there is no path, you make it as you walk – Caminante, no hay camino, se hace camino al andar. 

Date: 19th October, 2021

Section: Pozueta to Bilbao

Region: The Basque Country

Distance: 26kms

Average temp: 29°C

Time walking: 6 hrs

Ascent: 673 metres

Decent: 827 metres

Staying:

Hotel in Bilbao

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

From breakfast and about to begin our walk, we pose for a photo. A family portrait. Peter, Lydia, Jo, Ricky, Me, Fi, Ulises and Jenny. Oh and the little dog Jenny wants to take with her. This motley crew, this camino family of ours. A camino family is a part of the camino experience. In my experience you don’t seek your family it builds around you. I am grateful for this group of humans who found me on this path. My heart is fuller and I am richer for having known them. If I look at this photo I can think of something I’ve learnt from each of them. In 6 days, this happened. How magical.

Today Fi and I decide to walk our last day together. It feels important for us to walk into Bilbao, our last stop along this camino stage together. Starting and finishing together. Plus, I guess it will be nice to give Jo a stage win. Ha ha. 😉 We walk through the forests and take our time to walk, stopping for coffee and tapas in a small village along the way. At some point we leave the lush of the forest and begin the walk along the road. It feels looooong!

We have to earn our stay in the beautiful town of Bilbao. There is a cracking hill on the way in and the temp is averaging 29 degrees C. It is a pretty walk in, but also, it’s pretty steep! It is a hard slog. I prefer not to stop and start on the big climbs so I will meet Fi at the top. Up I go. From the top you can see the entire city of Bilbao. It is magnificent. I find Ricky asleep in some parklands at the top of the hill, he tends to catch up on sleep along the way. Jo is also here, doing his foot care routine. They make their way in to Bilbao as I take a break here to wait for Fi so we can begin our final decent of this walk into Bilbao.

What goes up, must come down! MAN, it feels like it takes forever to get down into Bilbao as we wind our way in through the laneways, city parklands and across the river towards our hotel. We are spent by this time. So spent that we decide to have an Aquarius (Spanish electrolyte drink) and a celebratory beer with some crisps a few doors before our hotel. We have booked a hotel in Bilbao as a treat. There’s a promise of a comfy bed, lux bathroom, no more washing clothes in sinks and we don’t need to wake early to walk. We stop even with the lure of this. We are just too tired, sweaty and gross to walk in yet. We struggle to drink the celebratory beer we’ve ordered, eventually we compose ourselves and make our way to check in.

After a nice warm shower, some time with our feet up and fresh hair, we wander into the old city of Bilbao to meet up with the crew for one last dinner together. I don’t have city clothes. Normally, this doesn’t worry me as I just get around in my hiking kit. This feels different though. We are finished, off the camino and we’re on a city break. When I walked the Camino Frances we didn’t really take city breaks. Fi has packed a scarf, it is perfect to dress up a hiking top. I’m adding this to my list of things I need to pack next time. Fi has taught me a lot about little essentials and camino tricks.

While in town I spot a cute summer skirt. Hmmm should I? I decide that YES I should! So I buy it, keep it on and put my leggings in my bag. I am now only half a pilgrim. Cute skirt with hiking top and hiking sandals. Maybe next time I will pack a light summer dress for such situations. I like these city finishes and Spanish town evenings along the Norte.

We arrive in the old town and meet everyone at the square for dinner. As we are eating I spot a colleague and his wife from work. Another small world within a BIG world moment. After some tapas and a glass of wine we bid farewell and good luck to everyone. Most are continuing on and some of us are heading home. Such is the way of the camino. Comings and goings. Will you meet again, you never know. Some you do and some you don’t. Like life! Fi and I promise to visit Jo and his family in Belgium. At time of writing, we have kept in touch but no visits. Fi is now back in Oz. Many have been to visit Ulises in the Canary Islands though!

A camino in sections! One down. One to ponder before beginning the next. One with experiences and lessons that need time to sink in before I begin to plan the next one. One to savour as a new way of walking a camino unfolds, a camino in stages. Tomorrow, I will visit the Guggenheim museum and wander as a tourist. A tourist who has just had one amazing adventure, whose soul is sparking even though her feet are tired.

Highlight:

To have finally written this series of posts from the first section of my Camino del Notre. It has taken me back to a special time with the added gift of hindsight. I don’t take this time for granted. I am grateful to have shared this section with Fi and Jo, who both in their sweet way have imprinted themselves in my heart and taught me I needed to be a little more open, less reserved and trusting of connection. xx

Ho hum:

After having walking the Camino Frances previously for 4 weeks I thought I knew how to do a camino. Ha! I’m still learning all the time. There is no one way and what suits you one day might be different the next. Ho hum though, it humbles me, to not know, to learn from those I meet and the experiences I gather.

Camino accomodation, Camino del Norte, Camino hiking

Camino del Norte – Day 5 Ziortza Bolibar to Pozueta

1 Comment

Enjoy little things – Disfruta de las pequeñas cosas.

Date: 18th October, 2021

Section: Ziortza Bolibar to Pozueta

Region: The Basque Country

Distance: 26kms

Average temp: 26°C

Time walking: 6 hrs

Ascent: 885 metres

Decent: 894 metres

Staying:

Albergue Caserio Pozueta – private albergue.

Dormatory room €15 bed, community dinner €11, breakfast €5.

Recommend, yes definitely!✔️roomy, great atmosphere, all facilities, clean, amazing hosts.

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

For me there is no need for an alarm on a camino. The nights are early so the mornings too fall into a natural early rhythm. The preparation to begin the day is done the night before, my water bladder is full, my pack is packed, the day’s clothes are laid out and ready. I’m up just before the sun rises this morning. Without even thinking I’m dressed in my hiking gear, my laces are tied and my pack is on. I’m excited and as the first light hits I’m ready to walk.

This morning Jo is also ready and we set off together. We’re not the only ones up. As we leave the village we see the daily bread has already been delivered to the doors of the locals. Before long we make it up to the monastery where most of the pilgrims on the trail would have stayed last night.

One of the things I love about this walk is that we walk amongst everyday life. We meet the locals in their towns, see them in their gardens, on the school run, doing their daily walks and foraging for mushrooms. We walk the same medieval rock paths that have existed for centuries and will do for many more. This is home to them and for now it is home to us.

At some point I lose Jo. We start to play a game of tag. As I pass another of our friends I send a photo! Germany, Japan, America, Spain. Before long I have hiked past them all. Ha ha I’m not competitive at all. No, not me.

As I make it into the town of Gernika-Lumo I meet Fi. She has cabbed in to town today due to injury and is enjoying a day in this pretty town. It is so perfect and a classic #CaminoCoincidence that she is the first person I see as I arrive in town. We have some lunch together. Before long Jo finds us and as we leave the town we stop at the famous Gernika oak tree. Or what is left of it. There is a lot of history in this town. I almost feel guilty about walking on and not taking it all in. Alas, we are not staying here so I will put it on my list of cool towns to visit in North Spain another time. I don’t feel this is my last time in these parts.

Up and out of Gernika we hike. I do love the steepness of this trail. It reminds my heart to beat. It reminds me that I’m alive and how much I love this mountain goat feeling. Before long we arrive at our albergue and from the moment of arrival we all love it. It’s a family project. A farmhouse that has been in the family for over 300 years, generations of the same family have lived here. The downstairs of this traditional Basque Country farm house started as a barn, then it housed a wine press that produced wine for the locals to drink (on Saturdays) and now it’s an albergue that accommodates pilgrims and hikers along the camino. It is special. I do recommend staying here if you’re walking you Camino del Norte.

Slowly, all the pilgrims we’ve met along the way from Irun began to arrive here at Pozueta. We are treated to an absolutely delicious home cooked community meal. We learn a lot in conversation with our host about Basque life and traditions. Such things as secret men’s gastronomic societies, pelota games, comedy and theatre sports – it’s an incredibly rich culture the Basque culture. We chat into the night beyond a magical sunset and under the watchful gaze of a full moon.

Highlight:

Ending the day with beautiful people, in this wonderful home under these skies is more than a highlight. It is a memory I will treasure forever. And fitting as our last night along this camino for now. Tomorrow is Fi and my last day of walking. I am excited for Jo and the others who are continuing on their way.

Ho hum:

When I look at the beginning of this day until its end I am amazed by it. Days are long. There is so much room in a day for so many small things. Small things add up. Just keep moving. Ho hum this feels like a good lesson for me.