Each person knows their own limitations, problems and what’s best for themselves – Cada uno sabe donde aprieta el zapato.

Date: 16th July, 2022

Section: Santoña to Güemes

Region: Cantabria

Staying: Güemes

Albergue La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto – Donativo, shared cabins.

Recommended for the experience.

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

Standing at the top of the cliffs today and looking down I thought ‘WOW, the world really is so, so big’. Gosh a long walk in the outdoors is good for some perspective. While yesterday was hot, hard and sweaty today was a completely different day. Perhaps my body is easing into the long days and my mind is letting go a bit, decisions are getting easier. I think I am defragging! Trusting myself.

* Defragmentation organizes storage on your computer by consolidating files and other data saved on your hard drive. When there’s not enough space on your disk to store an entire file in one place, the file is broken down into smaller pieces called fragments. Defragmentation puts those pieces back together

The camino like any travel experience becomes a part of you. I am a little bit of this place and it is now a little bit of me. With every hour I spend hiking, alone in my head and crossing paths with people, nature and everyday life I am humbled. What a privilege to be able to experience a week of my life in this way, be it barefoot on the sand, scrambling up the rocks, admiring the heaving fig trees as I pass by, or simply the freedom to walk with no real urgency to arrive. I’m stronger for it and this is something I needed, because the more I walk the more I realise that I haven’t been lately.

Tonight I’m staying at Albergue La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto. It is probably the most famous donativo (choose what you give) albergues along the Camino del Norte. You can read of its history here. In short, it exists because one person, Father Ernesto, dedicated his family home to creating an experience for others. Dinner and breakfast are prepared by volunteers and there is an expected attendance at a group gathering in the evening. ‘If we don’t do this society together, we’re going to sink’ Ernesto said at this meeting tonight. He also said he is happy to be an old man, even in a world where being old is hidden. I like thinking about that thought. I admire what he has created here, with his strong will and a desire for something different.

Check in was a lengthy procedure. I think there is a volunteer in training but there is lots of chatter, (the Spanish is too fast for me) and a lot of looking at the big sheet of room allocations. Gratefully I accepted the dring of cold water with orange slices and eventually I was allocated a room. I am sharing with an Irish mum who is walking with her 11 year old daughter. I am in awe of this little family, what an impressive undertaking. We have a bathroom in the cabin so we have one of the more private ones. I spend quite some time with Sunshine and her daughter chatting on our balcony.

Remember earlier in the day I was thinking the world was so, so BIG!?! Well, get this – they are from West Cork in Ireland. We spend 4 month living in East Cork a few years ago and we have 1 degree of separation. Her friend lived just 500 meters from us in the tiny Irish country village of Whitegate. What are the chances! As BIG as the world is, also it is so, so SMALL.

Dinner is a community affair. I sit with Sunshine, her daughter, Kate is here too and I also meet Eva from Slovakia. Eva, a Spanish translator has walked many a camino and is just oozing kindness and interest. She is open and easy to talk to and I feel an instant connection with her. Dinner with new friends from around the world, each with their own story and a deep love of the camino. How very ‘of’ the camino this kind of experience is. This does happens easier when you stay in shared accommodation, for me at least. Another pilgrim has been added to our cabin, but so far we haven’t seen much of him.

Highlight:

Lots today! The spectacular walking and the talking. Hearing the stories of others and how they travel, how different we all are and how we each walk our own way along the camino. And yet how very much the same we all are. Humanity.

Ho hum:

I realised today I am carrying more than I have in the past. Having teenagers is harder than having little ones. Worry is a heavy kind of backpack. Appreciate more, worry less … trust more.

If you fall seven times, get up eight – Si te caes siete veces, levántate ocho (seems apt for today)!

Date: 15th July, 2022

Section: Castro-Urdiales to Santoña

Region: Cantabria

Staying: Santoña

Hospedaje La Tortuga – Small hotel, double room €50 per night

Recommend, yes ✔️comfy bed, clean, well located and a bath.

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

After days of seeing no one, finally, today I met some pilgrims. Actually, right from at the beginning of the day! Within the first 10 minutes of setting out I met Kate, an American teaching English in Madrid. We met at the imposing Iglesia de Santa María del Puerto. Oh Spain just so much history and architectural wonder for this little Aussie. I haven’t chatted with anyone since arriving so I might of, probably, (definitely) was a motor mouth/chatty Cathy! I think I may have scared Kate off a little because she was quick to go and find some breakfast and not get caught walking with me. As you can see by the above photo the sun was already shining, ready to roast those of us who were out walking today.

Today had a lot of everything! Forest, villages, cliffside, the dreaded roadside walking but also some toes in the sand walking. Dang it was so hot. Heatwave hot. I even carried cans of Aquarius, the Spanish electrolyte drink with me. I am hiking ok but I hurt a lot and for the first time ever I feel out of shape. In chatting with my husband, the greatest supporter of my camino’ing he said ‘it’s ok … think of this as getting yourself back to your fitness base’. Ok, that sounds solid and like an idea I can work with, I’ll do that. This is me walking myself back into my base fitness. Keep breathing!

So you can see the contrast, this is what the trails looked like today. Most camino photos are so pretty, we’re showing you the awe inspiring brilliance of this mighty walk but the reality is also road walking. It is never joyful and in the middle of a European heatwave it’s bloody brutal. I might have to rethink my obsession with waterproof hiking shoes, or as they shall now be known fecking feet furnaces!

A nicer thing to chat about. Let me tell you about Alex a friendly Spaniard camino walker. Just before the above beach shot I met Kate at a cafe/bar and we stopped for some lunch. Alex, in chatting with the barman learnt of a ‘shortcut’. We could walk across this beach and in doing so we could cut out 3kms of highway walking. Kate, who through her time in Madrid has learnt Spanish got the low down from Alex, who in turn didn’t speak much English. OMG how is this for the camino providing the right set of coincidences in the absolute right moment!

Kate and I set off along the beach. Gladly it seems I didn’t scare her that much after all. But just in case I reigned in my ‘I haven’t talked to anyone in days excitement’. Lucky for Kate I was knackered anyhow. We were assured by the barman (via Alex) that the tide was out so there would be no problem in us taking this shortcut. Of course, if you know me this could sound a bit like a recipe for disaster. I could get myself lost because it’s not written in any of the guide books, there’s no map! But the 3km we could shave from the day and the highway walking – there was no question, we were doing it. So barefoot walking on the sand we went. Which is always good, soul kinda good but on this day my feet also appreciated the massage.

After the beach along some more highway I lost Kate. I did what I rarely do when I’m hiking, I put headphones in and I sung. The highway walking really has no joy, it’s hard yakka, especially in this heat. Perhaps it’s a good test of grit or maybe it’s just flat out crazy. Probably it’s just like plodding through some of the tasks in normal life, boring, challenging, but necessary. Music always helps me shift energy when I’m feeling like things aren’t rosy. And this long day wasn’t feeling so rosy, so whatever gets you through!

As I was nearing the point where I needed to take the ferry over to Santoña my end point for the day I’m not gonna lie, I toyed with the idea of hitching the last 500 metres to the ferry. It all hurt. But I was a sweaty mess so not sure anyone would appreciate me in their car. And I’m kind of a stickler for walking all the steps (for me, everyone else of course can do them, natch). And truthfully I wouldn’t ever hitch hike again, I don’t need that kind of fear. 🙂

Mostly today the food wasn’t great, I never feel good these days if I eat eggs and bread. Thankfully, dinner (above) was a treat, crisp and fresh. Again, I am in my own room so I enjoyed getting my feet up to rest. I need the rest because tomorrow I am back at it and another truth – no matter the hurt I do love it here. What choice is there when you love it but to walk onward. Tomorrow is an interesting day I will stay at the infamous Albergue La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto. More on that tomorrow … for now dear ones, goodnight.

Highlight:

Of course it was starting to meet some camino characters. I’ve walked enough caminos to know my friends that this is the beginning of something.

Ho hum:

Tell me, am I crazy?

Life is full of twists and turns – Arrieros Somos Y En El Camino Nos Encontraremos

Date: 14th July, 2022

Section: Portugalete to Castro-Urdiales

Region: Cantabria

Staying: Castro-Urdiales

Pensión La Mar – Small pensión, single room €35 per night

Recommend, yes ✔️comfy bed, clean, well located, cobblestones streets with excellent tapas (pinchos) bars on the doorstep!

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

A proper camino morning start! Yesterday’s hard hiking and hot weather obviously didn’t wear me out because I was super organised and ready to leave this morning. This is the nice thing about your own room, it’s easy to spread out. Water in the hiking bladder, clothes ready, guide book read and marked, fruit to start the morning. Walking out of Portugalete there are two options. Take the travelator up the hill or walk. No joke. I walked given that I wash fresh and excited but I could see how in the heat of the day this travelator could be enticing, a given probably. 😉

Why do I love the camino? It is a question I am asked often. Honestly, it is just so easy. You can just rock up and walk. This works really well for me, especially easy for shorter trips because we are currently living in Europe. There is minimal planning required and I use the same kit each time (mostly). This is my fourth trip along a Spanish camino, always a different hiking route but the formula is the same. Pack light, arrive, get up to walk, find your way, eat along the way, find where to stay, wash yourself, wash your gear for tomorrow, get in your second set of clothes, immerse yourself in Spanish camino life. The more you walk the more I think you find your own rhythm. But please don’t be fooled into thinking that I have it all down pat and that there are no challenges. There are, today had challenges.

One of the routines or rhythms that works for me and that I actually love a lot is to hike to breakfast. Today it was a 15km hike before I sat down to a coffee and pulled pork tacos, there was even an ocean view. I recently (the day before this camino) turned 50 so I am of the age where protein with each meal is so important for women, especially on a day where I’m hiking almost 30kms. Some stretches along the camino can be tricky to get food with colour and protein but so far along the Norte since Bilbao it has been relatively easy. I am not normally a pork eater but sometimes I find I need to adjust to get what I need, otherwise I’m eating bread and tortilla every meal!

The del Norte begins in the Basque region and now I’ve hiked into the wild beauty of the Cantabrian region. Once again I am out of cities and the landscape just so pleasurable. I walked past animals, wild growing produce, through mountain tunnels, up fairytale stairwells, through quaint villages all the while flanked by the sea. I like to think I will swim along the way but it is harder than is sounds to simply stop with all your gear and jump in – for me at least. Perhaps if I stay seaside it will be a nice evening thing to do. I am happy to take my shoes of and walk along the sand where possible though. Sea air, salty feet – nothing like it!

In amongst all this delightful walking there were some tears. I walked further than planned. My guide book is a little out of date and I walked too long without food, lost the path and couldn’t find the place I had planned to stay. It no longer existed! It has been my experience that people along the camino are kind and helpful. Again today this was my experience of locals, they happily assisted me with my terrible Spanish to find what I needed, a kitchen was even opened to cook me a plate of scallops.

I really don’t take this privilege I have of walking along the camino for granted. Yes, it is hard and the tears are real and for sure I’m uncomfortable sometimes. I try to realise that my uncomfortableness is within a comfortable place. Even when I am hurting and am feeling unsure and am struggling with decisions: do I stop, do I stay, walk here, walk there. I am comfortably uncomfortable. Maybe this is a little about where I am in life. Oh the camino, there you go taking me deep into myself again.

My day ended up in Castro-Urdiales where I had a single room booked in a little pénsion. I booked it while refuelling on the scollops. Maybe there is an Albergue in town but it’s been a long day and I don’t think I’m ready to share a room or bathroom. I haven’t met anyone yet and the trails are very quiet. This is ok for me, but tomorrow I think I will be ready to find some interesting conversation … but first dinner!

Just because we are out of the Basque Region doesn’t mean the food tastes have slipped. I thoroughly enjoyed some pinchos and a glass or two of verdecho tonight. Yes, thorougly. I’m so glad to have my own space again tonight to return home to and yes, tomorrow is another day.

Highlight:

The countryside was so beautiful today. Aside from the short moments spent with the nuances of the guidebook and the questioning/second guessing of myself it was absolutely blissful walking amongst such beauty.

Ho hum:

Where has the trust in my decisions and decision making ability gone? This I’d like to ponder, is it a post pandemic thing, an age thing, a life stage thing, a confidence thing? Hiking is a great way to get curious – it shows you yourself.

Everybody comes back to the places where he or she loved life – Uno siempre vuelve a los lugares donde amó a la vida. 

Date: 13th July, 2022

Section: Bilbao to Portugalete

Region: The Basque Country

Staying: Portugalete

Puente Colgante Boutique Hotel – Private Hotel €90 per night

Recommend, yes ✔️comfy bed, clean, well located, beautiful restaurant for dinner.

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

It started off like any normal day in my Dutch life! I cycled the littlest one to school for his last day of the school year and put a few home fires out. I did leave a lot of unfinished things…but you know I had a bus, a train and a plane to catch.

By the late afternoon I was in the Bilbao airport toilets flipping from school mum to hiking chick. Comfy plane pants to hiking pants, hiking sandals to hiking shoes, from a top knot hairstyle to a low pony (so my cap fits), completing my transformation with the application of a shit ton of sunscreen – sheesh it’s hot here! I jumped into a taxi and headed straight to the Guggenheim Museum (where I left off last October) to start walking. I was back on the camino and feeling ever so smug and proud of myself for how today started and finished. Landing here in this moment ready to hike feels like an achievement.

It’s never nice hiking out of big cities (think soulless industrial sprawl) it’s always best done in the morning when you’re fresh, but this is where I was. And boy was I here 37 degree heat and hiking on and amongst the concrete. Even though it was only 11.5 kms it was probably one of the most difficult hikes I’ve done, so hot and concrete’y! I was so thrilled to make it to Puente Colgante for the 45c boat trip across the river and into the old town of Portugalete.

My hotel was just 100m away from where the boat docked. I didn’t wing it tonight. After my full day I needed a room and my own shower to be waiting. I did not want to risk having to hike on and also it’s nice on day 1 to get myself gently into the flow. Tomorrow I’ll wing it, there seems to be plenty of space in the towns.

The camino is hard hiking for sure but also it’s enjoyable touristing. With the day’s hiking finished it’s time for the after hike camino life. Freshly showered and back in comfy pants, hiking sandals and the top knot (lazy hairdo) reinstated it’s time to venture out and see life happening on the streets. After a brief wander I decided on the €20 three course set menu at the hotel. It was delicious. My favourite dishes included the basque squid with leak and caramelised onion, quinoa with beets and vegetables. The gastronomy of the basque region never disappoints.

It was probably the epitome of my perfect version of self care in this ‘wellness’ inspired era. Hard hiking followed by a a slow meal and time to write in my journal and also share some photos in my digital instagram journal. All the feels really; in my cosy corner of this restaurant, totally in my lane and back on the trail adventuring and sharing it with all of you fellow wanderlusters. What will this stage of the camino bring? No expectations, I am open to it. Aahhh…the AWE of travel.

Highlight:

It has to be this moment of feeling so at peace with this day and where I am. It is rather magical, like I could achieve or be anything. I am in my other world, indulging the part of me that doesn’t require me to be anything for anyone else. I just get to do me. The adventurer. The dreamer.

Ho hum:

It’s good to take a break from things sometimes but never too long if they matter to who you are. It is important to be who you are, to give yourself what you need and to be in your secret world from time to time. That place only you know – where your mind is free to dream, imagine, reflect and plot.