Life is full of moments that are opportunities to share and smile – La vida está llena de segundos que son oportunidades para compartir y sonreír.

Date: 15th October, 2021

Section: Donostia – San Sebastián to Getaria

Region: The Basque Country

Distance: 27 kms

Average temp: 25°C

Time walking: 6hrs

Ascent: 827 metres

Decent: 804 metres

Staying: Getaria

Hotel Itxas Gain – a small hotel. Everything else is closed.

Double room, shared with Fi €60 for the room.

Recommend, yes ✔️nice clean, great location, everything is close, your own bathroom so walking around in whatever is acceptable!

Instagram: Link to extra photos and daily caption.

Today:

We set off around 8am this morning and grabbed a coffee and croissant at a cafe on the way. The cafe was also serving the smartly dressed locals on their way to work, such a contrast. A harmonious contrast. The camino paths are a part of Spain’s essence and as such its people. They hold space for us as we wayfarer through their towns, soaking in the pleasure of our experiences along these ancient paths.

I walk a different pace than Fi so we decide to walk our own walk today and meet along the way, or wherever we land at the end of the day. This is the beauty of a walking a camino the with someone who has also walked one. We know the drill, how to find our own way.

Two people can walk a camino at the same time and the camino will be walked and experienced differently. We are all here with different intentions, pace and way of doing and being. To me this is one of the most important and respectful things to ‘get’ about a camino. There is no right or wrong way. We all get to be us and that’s rather magical as we can learn from each other. Learn about ourselves and others.

The Camino del Norte thus far has long, long stretches without towns, which means no coffee stop for hours. I was glad for the 2L platypus water bladder I have on my back and the additional 1L platypus soft bottle. (Gear tip: these are light, packable, reusable and easy to use – info below.) Of course drinking so much means a lot of toilet stops. The camino is not great for public toilets at the best of times, let alone these long stretches. So FYI future walkers, you do have to be ok with finding a tree or a shrub.

After what felt like a long, physical, yet blissful time walking without a soul in sight I entered the small port town of Orio. In the piazza on an outside table in the sun I found Peter and Jenny. We enjoyed some lunch together. When in Spain and when on the coast I’m going to eat seafood, so it was calamari for me. Peter and Jenny had the traditional tortilla de patatas, a Spanish potato omelette. I had wondered if we’d meet again. They were up and gone earlier than us this morning. Perhaps I will meet them again, perhaps not – as is the way of the camino.

After refuelling, Jenny and Peter were on their way again. I sat a little longer and pondered how mesmerising a camino day can be. It brings you to so many places: small towns, kind locals who leave a first aid kit open for pilgrims, tests of your stamina, your resilience, connections with others – your fellow pilgrims/hikers, time for you.

I set off again with another water taxi ride to continue along the trail across the inlet. Then a Camino del Norte treat arrived, coastal walking, which meant walking with shoes off and my feet in the sea. WOW. How is that for something magical on a unplanned Friday afternoon in October.

I arrived in Getaria after taking the high path rather than the coastal road, I had the energy. It was well worth it. However, by the end I was spent and ready to put my pack down and feet up. This was proving a little tricky. The albergue had not reopened since covid closures (common in this time) and the recommended pension was closed for a family celebration. Ooops. There was no way I was walking on, nor was I going back so I decided to find a hotel room and hope Fi would be ok with it.

If I am honest I don’t mind a private room. My sister and I ended up booking private rooms a lot along the Camino Frances. These were often attached to private albergues so not much more expensive when travelling with two. Fi was having trouble with her phone and would only randomly get sms texts from me when in range. In what is usually a hyperconnected world we were often without contact.

Our walk has become a walk where I walk ahead and hope I make a destination and accommodation decision that works for both of us. To be sure, I prepared a sweetener for her arrival. I popped down to the supermarket and stocked us up with a picnic for her arrival. Aquarius (the classic camino hydration drink), fruit, chocolate, some salt (crisps) and nuts for tomorrow. Lucky! She was delighted with both, the hotel and the picnic 🙂 Ph-ew.

Along the last 5kms of her walk today Fi met Jo from Belgium. I think she is better at meeting people along the way than me. I am always so focussed on walking and walking past people. I do walk fast and I do like to be at my accommodation earlier in the day. I can then take a long stop there rather than lots of little breaks. It’s the same with airport departures, I just need to get to check in. It doesn’t mean I miss things. I am usually solo so I see it all. I take photos, I think a lot and I breathe it all in, deeply. I still flow. I just do it my way.

We ran into Fi’s new mate Jo as we hit the laneways for dinner and together we spend a few cozy hours of sitting, chatting, nibbling pinchos and sipping a glass of white wine. How absolutely perfect. A great day of hiking and this, an unexpected evening of great company and story sharing. We enjoyed it all amongst the vivacious Spanish way of living in this traditional, picturesque fishing village. Spaniards will usually move from bar to bar, whereas we, with our tired feet and grateful souls were happy to sit at the one that had a free outside table and just chill. While the camino is about the walking, it is also about this, unexpected connections and foodie experiences. I will sleep happy.

Highlight:

All the different elements of this unplanned day. The beautiful long uninterrupted walk, beginning to meet up with people, barefoot walking along the ocean and the joy of having a great mate to share this week with.

Ho hum:

As I wander through farms and countryside I begin to wonder do I still dream of this kind of life? A country life. Do I have it in me? Another reinvention or has time, this unplanned, unexpected year of pandemic life changed things, changed me? Who am I now?

Handy gear tips:

2L Platypus soft water bladder.

1L Platypus soft bottle.