All Camino routes (resources), Camino del Norte

A Camino In Stages, Camino del Norte

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“Not all who wander are lost.”

J.R.R. Tolkien

Yes, we’re overly familiar with this quote. And yes, it’s an overused cliché in travel writing. But as I begin packing for another camino it speaks to me. I am both parts excited and nervous as I prepare for the next stage of my adventure. Soon, I will again be traversing the north coast of Spain along the Camino del Norte. Soon it will be just me, my thoughts, the trail and all I need in my backpack. Starting each day in one place and ending it in another. Lost in the days as they unfold. Lost in my love of wandering. Lost in a long walk. A camino. Aaah. Good lost.

This long walk began one late September afternoon in 2021. A friend, Fi and I were chatting about life and how we needed something. The world was opening beyond the covid times and we needed to find who we were in this new time. We had both walked a long camino before, the Camino Frances. Fondly we had shared the stories of our camino adventures. “Why don’t we just go and walk a week along the Camino del Norte next month” I ventured. To which she replied “sure, why don’t we”! That was the moment my walk along the Camino del Norte in stages began. A spontaneous why don’t we to friend who said YES let’s!

It isn’t always easy to be spontaneous, to leave my family for a week, to find the space and to just go for walk, a long walk. A walk that follows the arrows. For me it is a call. A call I have learnt to answer. It is who I am. It has become normal in our home for mum to go and walk a camino. It has become my thing. It isn’t that I don’t enjoy other hiking, I do. Very much. The camino just makes it easy to spontaneously go. The infrastructure is there, beds, meals, the many route options. I can hike my pace and be on my own which I enjoy. There are also many opportunities to meet interesting people. Those people that just seem to find you on a camino. The ones who become part of your camino, your life story.

Sometimes, the best plans are the ones you spontaneously say yes to. The ones you don’t even have the time to second guess – because that ball. It.Is.Already.Rolling. How lucky I am it was Fi who I shared my lunch with on that September day. That ball we kicked free has brought me here, to this space. Writing and once again packing. I have been lost in my journal of the first two stages of my Camino del Norte, writing them up to share with yourselves, the camino lovers. I have felt all the feels as I’ve reflected on those days wandering the camino. The time I spent with me, the people I met and the landscapes that became a part of me. Expanding with each step I walked. How grateful I am for having found the camino. Or was it the camino that found me?!? I hope you enjoy my Camino del Norte stories as they land here daily over the next weeks.

Camino packing, Camino planning

Camino Packing – My Camino Shower Kit

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Where I last left the Camino del Norte in Santander I dipped in the ocean for a salty cleanse at the end of a long, hot day/week of walking. Pure luxury! As is the shower you take when you arrive at your accommodation each day. Heaven.

As I am currently packing my shower kit and trying new things here is a post for those of you who are also planning your camino. Toiletries are the achilles heel of my packing. What can I say? I, unashamedly, love a product. I like to keep my face cleansed and my skin moisturised! Oh and I wash my hair every day on the camino, hours of walking and sweating I can’t not! However, I do want to get more minimal and I want to be as sustainable as I can and avoid throw away plastic.

So this is what I will go with …

  • 1 x Lush soap bar that also moisturises in tin
  • 1 x Lush shampoo and conditioner bar in tin
  • 1 x Lush face cleanser bar in tin
  • 1 x Bottle of face rose-hip oil
  • 1 x Deodorant
  • 1 x Razor
  • 1 x Comb plus spare hair tie
  • 1 x Toothbrush, floss and mini tubes collected from hotels and flights
  • 1 x Quick dry towel (140 grams) because I am doing or aiming to do Albergues
  • 1 x Fold away mini pack (50 grams) to use to go to the shower (also used on plane or when out and about after a day of hiking)

Camino Tip! Wear your clothes in the shower and wash them first then take them off and wash yourself. Or you can do it in the wash sinks if provided. I prefer to do it as I shower and then it’s done and I can get my feet up and resting.

My Camino Shower Kit

Weighing in at 400 grams

Other essentials: i.e. sunscreen, tiger balm I pack in My Camino FirstAid Kit which weighs in at 300 grams.

It is basically 1kg of my packing weight! Plastic bags have been suggested for the soaps but I really want to avoid that kind of convenience. The plastic ones I use for my sandals and the towel have been reused many times! If I use some for soap I am not sure they will go the distance. Any thoughts?

I may also pack a lipgloss and some mascara for the city stay at the end!😉

All Camino routes (resources), Camino pilgrim stories

Which Camino Route, Which Section? Endless Options!

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If you’ve started your camino research, it’s likely you’ve realised that your camino options are endless. You can find almost 300 listed caminos criss crossing countless countries. You can choose from any one of these routes, walk the entire route, choose a section of a route, bus some or even come back next time to where you left off. Mountains, oceans, forests, inland, coastal and urban trails, wine regions, tapa regions, quaint villages, farmscapes, popular or more desolate paths. The options are endless. Traditionally, a pilgrim began their camino from home, some pilgrims still do!

While walking the Camino Frances I met Miriam from Amsterdam. For the past 14 years she has set off for two weeks in April to walk her camino. Each year she picks up where she last left off, each time getting a little closer towards Santiago and to gaining her compostella. Funny story, she also lived most of her life in the same village we currently live in. We had trained walking in the same forests. A classic camino/travel coincidence! This was back in 2018 in Cirauqui, one of the quaint hilltop Spanish villages along way to Santiago de Compostella. I guess she has walked into Santiago by now.

Perhaps Miriam will even walk back to Amsterdam from Santiago!?! This is also not completely uncommon. Last year along the way I met John, an American who had learnt Spanish during the covid lockdowns. When the camino opened again he decided to walk it to practice his Spanish. John, a retiree with time on his hands, decided upon his arrival in Santiago to turnaround and walk back to St Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP). Naturally, he is fluent now. Clever John, I did not learn a language during lockdowns! I am trying again now though John. Meeting these characters and hearing their interesting stories is one of the reasons I keep going back. You never know who you will meet and who will inspire your life along the camino.

The most popular camino with its brilliant pilgrim infrastructure is the Camino Frances and the most beautiful is thought to be the Camino del Norte, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Camino Primitivo is the most challenging and the Camino Ingles is where the English and Irish pilgrims would traditionally begin after crossing the channel into Spain. Or, perhaps walking the Portugese coast interests you. Walking your camino is now more popular than ever with 2022 recording the highest number of pilgrims in the past decade. A camino, it seems is high on many people’s ‘wish to experience in life’ list.

Of course, it isn’t doable or even desirable for many to start from home like Miriam, or to walk to and from SJPDP like John. So it’s a choice of which route, or which section along the camino. When you come from a long way, like OZ or the Americas it isn’t always easy to dedicate the 4-5 weeks required to walk the entire length of the camino. Depending on time available or distance desired many choose to start at Sarria. This is the last 100kms point and is the distance required to gain a compostella certificate. Some, like sweet Al (above) from Canada choose to walk from a bigger city such as Leon. Or, like my mates Jenny and Piet (below) from Sydney, whom I met last year when I was walking the first section of the Camino Frances with my son, a combination is better. They started in SJPDP, walked a few weeks, took a bus through a few sections and hoped back on the trail later. Your camino is a real life ‘choose your own adventure’ story.

Personally, I have competed a full Camino Frances, the shorter Camino Finisterre and Muxia and have four other caminos on the go. Yes, four! (There’s apparently a term for that … a camino tragic.) I am nearly ready to complete the third section of the Camino del Norte. I am one section into the Camino Frances with my son. We will return later this year for the next one. Also, later this year my bestie from Oz is coming to do the last couple of hundred kms of the Camino Frances with me, or more I am going with her! And like Miriam, I also began walking from my home. My from home camino is to Rome and it follows European camino paths. lt’s a slow boiler this one, I seem to struggle to fit this camino in! I am looking forward to sharing these caminos with you in these pages.

Basically! Your camino begins wherever you choose to start! The one you plan and travel to or simply when you put your shoes on and walk outside.

Camino packing, Camino planning, Uncategorized

Camino Packing – My Camino First Aid Kit

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Yes! It is true, you can find a farmacia (pharmacy) vending machine stocked with FirstAid supplies along the camino. This did give me a giggle when I first spotted one. You will also find many farmacias along the camino to purchase all your first aid requirements. Just look for the neon green cross, if it’s on, you’re in luck.

We’re all trying to keep those packed kgs low. What do they say ‘carry less than 10% of your body weight’. BUT, if like me you like to be prepared, a little kit is a handy way to deal with any niggles as early as possible. Little niggles can become bigger problems later, and along our camino, we all want to stay healthy and keep walking. Right?!

Obviously prevention is best, so shoes, socks, training, foot care, hydration ya da ya da. However, even with our best efforts niggles and problems can occur. Over the years and many camino and hiking trips later I’ve created the kit list below that works for me. (Save some grams by not packing the packaging.)

💫 👣💫 If we don’t need to use what bring, just maybe we’ll come across someone who does.

My Camino essential FirstAid kit

  • Tiger balm (rub into feet daily after shower)
  • Small ball to roll under feet at the end of the day
  • Blister patches (compeed)
  • Bandaids
  • Electrolyte sachets (to pop in my water bottle on the big days)
  • Sunscreen and lip balm with UV protection
  • Antibacterial hand gel
  • Painkillers (paracetamol)
  • Anti inflammatories
  • Repellent, bug bite cream and antihistamines*
  • Sterilised needle and alcohol swabs**

My Camino FirstAid Kit

Weighing in at 300 grams.

* I have an allergy to bed bug bites. I know, no one wants to hear about bed bugs but they happen. I have had them in a donative, a private albergue and a pricey hotel. Not along every camino, but 3/5 of them. Being able to manage the itch and my reaction right away makes for a far more pleasant experience. I learnt the hard way after walking a whole day before finding a farmacia. I won’t share a photo but think hives, huge itchy red angry ones! Eeek. Just writing this makes me itch, fingers crossed for my next one. Oh and if I am out of antihistamines I buy them in Spain before I leave, the farmacias there are good like that.

** This is a new edition for me. How to treat blisters is controversial. I tend to go with deal with them directly as soon as you feel them by supporting and protecting them with compeed, rather than risk infection by popping them myself. Of course prevention is best. I have managed to avoid them for many caminos but the last two I was wearing a different trail runner and I wasn’t so lucky. I had a blister on the insides of my big toes and they needed the pressure removed. I waited too long and ended up with a lot of pain and losing toe nails. This time I will be prepared if it happens again. Also, I am back in my trusted brand of hiking shoe so hopefully no issues. There are places along the way to get foot care if needed and of course seeking proper care is smart and preferable. Your albergue can often help you locate where.

*** My husband (the gear freak) always packs an emergency blanket. I read recently of a few people who became hypothermic after crossing the Pyrenees in bad weather. I won’t be in any big mountains so will leave it out this time. Perhaps when I get to the Primativo camino again.

Right … digging out the silk sleeping liner that apparently those gross little bugs hate and booking in a pedicure now to be sure my toes are in top shape before I leave!

Any other suggestions?

I share my shower essentials here in My Camino Shower Kit.

Other resources: